
Caledonia Wild! Summer 2003
To receive the complete copy of our newsletters, please Join Trees for Life as a Member – with your support we will also be more effective in our work to restore the Caledonian Forest.
Time to experience the forest
Wood ants taking a caterpillar back to their nest - a photograph which resulted from two hours of patient observation.
|
Over the years, my inspiration for restoring the Caledonian Forest has come from being out in the forest itself. By walking amongst the trees, and allowing the sounds, sights, smells and sheer vitality of the forest to fill my senses, I've developed a strong personal connection with places such as Glen Affric. That contact is both nourishing for me as an individual, and essential to the work of Trees for Life.
Although I gained an initial impression of the forest from my first visit, it has taken me a lot of time, involving numerous visits over many years, to develop a deeper understanding of the forest as a complex, vibrant ecosystem. This understanding derives, in part, from spending more time in smaller areas, getting to know them more intimately. Nowadays, I can easily spend an entire day in just a few hundred square metres, exploring the more intimate details such as fungi, insects and each individual tree there.
My current interest in wood ants, for example, stems directly from a day some years ago when I sat beside one particular wood ant nest for over two hours and quietly watched the activity there. It was only by taking that time to observe the ants that I saw, and photographed, one of their important ecological functions in the forest - the removal of defoliating caterpillars from Scots pines.
My desire to really know the forest has also led me to connect with it in different ways. I've climbed numerous Scots pines; I've laid flat on the ground beside beetles, to get their view of the forest; I've let the tumbling cascades of forest streams massage my back; and I've hugged trees to sense the pulse of life within them. All of this takes time, and I feel privileged to be able to spend so many days out in the Caledonian Forest.
That sense of privilege has grown substantially this summer, as a result of surveying for moths in Glen Affric. Many moths live in their adult (ie flying) form for just two weeks, during which they are active only at night - in daylight, they rest motionless on tree trunks or branches. However, in northern Scotland, it is only dark for four hours a night in the middle of summer, so for many species their actual cumulative time of flying may be just a total of 48 hours - such a short period to be in such a beautiful forest!
Alan contemplating the forest on the north shore of Loch Beinn a' Mheadhoin in Glen Affric.
|
By contrast, we humans have long life spans, and can visit a forest, or other natural area, in different seasons and repeatedly over many years. However, many people today live their entire lives in urban, human-created environments, without ever experiencing anywhere like Glen Affric. I believe that this lack of meaningful contact with wild nature, and the peace which comes from that, is one of the causal factors for many of the problems in our society, such as apathy, crime, violence and alienation.
Spending quality time out in the forest is a source of inspiration for all our staff here, and it is one of the most important elements in my own life. I believe it is vital for everyone to have a personal experience of wild nature, and one of the best ways of doing that is to take part in our volunteer work weeks. So why not join us in Glen Affric, and take time to experience the forest?
Alan Watson Featherstone
Top of page
Summer – Big, Blowsy and Bold
Scots pines and birches beside cascades in the gorge of the Allt an Eòin burn on the Achlain Estate in Glen Moriston.
Lesser twayblade orchid, photographed on the Achlain Estate in early June 2003.
The lone pine near the Allt Phocaichain stream on the Achlain Estate is at least 1 kilometre from the next nearest pine, on Forest Enterprise land downstream.
Adam surveying the remnant woodland on the upper reaches of the Allt Phocaichain stream on the Achlain Estate.
|
Days out!
Thank goodness, too, for summer: long days, warm sunshine (sometimes, anyway!) and the chance to get out of the office and into the natural world that inspires all of us here. Recent visits to the Achlain Estate in Glen Moriston have been very rewarding: we have looked at a small floodplain woodland next to the River Loyne, a degraded pinewood fragment ripe for regeneration and a winding river valley reaching from the River Moriston in the bottom of the glen to a scatter of feeder pools five kilometres and 400 metres up the hill. The owners of the property have already made a great start with native woodland restoration projects and have invited us to come up with ideas to take this further.
The floodplain site seems to have limited restoration potential, with little natural regeneration from the straggle of trees beside the river. However, we have suggested a pilot project to protect the few young trees that are there and to assess the response to excluding browsing animals from small areas. Should natural regeneration of trees within these small areas occur, a larger scheme will be considered. Interestingly, the 'young' trees on the site, which are mostly birches, seem to be the result of a small pulse of regeneration in the past. The growth of lichen on their heavily browsed and stunted branches indicates they are at least ten years old, but probably older.
The pinewood fragment, beside the Allt an Eòin ('the stream of birds' in Gaelic) is situated between two non-native plantations, and appears to be a remnant of an ancient pine woodland site. This is evidenced by the distinctive ground flora, with wide mats of blaeberry (Vaccinium myrtillus), cowberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea) and some crowberry (Empetrum nigrum), amongst relict hummocks - rounded vegetated structures which develop over a long period of time in the shade of the woodland canopy and which have managed to persist in the absence of trees. Many other species of woodland flowering plants have survived within the river gorge and in the shade of trees and boulders on the adjacent open ground. Two lovely waterfalls are secretly tucked away in this gorge, and as we peered in, like curious hobbits on the edge of the wild wood, a raven silently flew from its nest, hidden under the overhang of a cliff.
About 20 mature Caledonian pine (Pinus sylvestris) have survived at the site, and a larger number appear to have been felled, presumably for timber, about 50 years ago. Other tree/shrub species noted, mostly within the steep rocky gorge of the stream, were silver and downy birch (Betula pendula and B. pubescens), rowan (Sorbus aucuparia), aspen (Populus tremula), bird cherry (Prunus padus), grey and eared willow (Salix cinerea and S. aurita), alder (Alnus glutinosa), juniper (Juniperus communis) and dog rose (Rosa canina).
There are several healthy young pine trees within the gorge but only two seedlings were found on the open ground, along with prolific and widespread new regeneration of birch and rowan, which were cropped very close to ground level. No new trees have become established, except in inaccessible locations within the gorge itself, but tree cover would return quickly with such an abundance of seedlings if the site were protected. A natural progression would probably establish itself with birch and rowan predominating initially as pioneer species and pine colonising the site in time. The surviving mature pine are old, damaged and, in some cases fallen; several skeletons of dead trees demonstrate that this is a woodland in the advanced stages of decline. This process could be reversed by installing a fence to exclude browsing animals and would enable the recovery of a rich and diverse pinewood habitat.
The third location, Allt Phocaichain (Gaelic for 'stream of the pockets'), is a dream project for a woodland conservationist, combining riparian, or riverside, woodland and montane scrub with dwarf birch (Betula nana) on the higher ground, in a corridor connecting with pine forest on the lower slopes and mixed woodland in the more fertile valley downstream. A little, steep-sided gorge high up on the river harboured birch, willow and rowan trees and a host of woodland flowers including the tiny, dark red flowered lesser twayblade orchid (Listera cordata). It is overlooked by the evocative sight of a lone pine tree on the open moorland and a standing dead pine a little further to the west. This and several fallen dead trunks of birch trees show that this is another piece of our native woodland in severe decline.
We hope the owners of the property will see the opportunity of extending the work that Forest Enterprise have started further down the Allt Phocaichain stream (and which Trees for Life volunteers will soon be helping with), and take up our suggestion of initiating a natural regeneration/new planting scheme to create this connective corridor of native woodland.
Adam Powell
Top of page
Biological diversity in Glen Affric
Bog beacon fungi (Mitrula paludosa) growing in a wet area amongst pine needles and leaves, near Badger Falls in Glen Affric.
|
As the third largest remnant of the Caledonian Forest pinewoods, and the largest area of least-disturbed forest left in Scotland, Glen Affric is a prime site for the study of biological diversity. However, in comparison with other pinewood remnants such as Abernethy, Glen Affric has been comparatively little studied in the past, and no comprehensive species lists have been drawn up for many groups of organisms, such as moths and beetles.
This situation has begun to change in recent years, as the Forestry Commission's Northern Research Station has established a series of biodiversity plots in the glen. One of these is just below the Coille Ruigh exclosure, and a rare lichen, forked-hair lichen (Bryoria furcellata) was discovered there a few years ago. A study in 2002 on spiders in these plots by Michael Usher of Stirling University and Jonathan Humphrey of the Northern Research Station will soon be published, and they identified a total of 75 species including one rare spider (Clubiona subsultans), which is the subject of a UK Biodiversity Action Plan, and previously has only been found on Speyside and at Rannoch in Perthshire. This is the first substantial study of arachnids in Glen Affric, and the results indicate how much remains to be discovered about the pinewoods there.
As visitors to the Trees for Life web site will know, we have been compiling species lists for the biological diversity which is currently known within the glen, and for some groups, such as fungi and lichens, these lists are quite extensive. However, they are also being continuously added to. For example, in May I found an unusual and beautiful fungus, known as 'swamp candles' or bog beacon (Mitrula paludosa), growing in the Badger Falls area - there are no previous records for this species in Glen Affric.
The pale prominent (Pterostoma palpina) is one of the moth species recorded in Glen Affric in May this year.
|
This year, as part of our focus on biological diversity, we have organised a specialist survey of moths in Glen Affric. Thanks to funding from Forest Enterprise and Scottish Natural Heritage, we have contracted David Barbour, an entomologist who specialises in Lepidoptera (butterflies and moths), to carry out four detailed surveys between May and August, to document the species which fly at different times throughout the spring/summer season. I accompanied David one night on the first of his surveys in May, when he set up light traps at the eastern end of the glen. About 50 species were identified that night, and David expects that the total number of moth species in the glen should be in the region of 300. By the end of this summer we'll have a clearer idea about this.
Meanwhile, a woodland flora survey by Adam Powell and Paul Kendall at the beginning of July has produced some unexpected and unusual results. This survey took place in the birchwoods at the eastern end of the glen, and forms part of our project to document (and where appropriate, restore) the woodland ground flora. When Adam and Paul had finished compiling the list of 70 species they encountered, they sought to match it with the birch woodland community in the National Vegetation Classification (NVC) system. However, they were quite surprised to find that the flora was quite different from that of the birch woodland community, but fitted very well with what would be growing in an upland oak woodland. Given that such a plant community can survive relatively unchanged after the oaks have been removed (eg by felling), and that there are still a handful of old oaks growing between Badger Falls and Dog Falls (mostly in relatively inaccessible places), we surmise from this that this eastern part of the glen may have been predominantly an oakwood in the past. In neighbouring glens such as Strathfarrar and Moriston, oaks are more abundant than in Affric, and if there were more oaks in Affric in the past, it may be that they were felled for their timber. We plan to discuss this finding, and its implications for forest restoration in the glen, with Forest Enterprise in the near future.
Alan Watson Featherstone
Top of page
Where the Wild things are ...
Children from P4 in Inverness Primary School, out in the forest in Glen Affric.
Photo by Jennie Martin
|
Day visits to Glen Affric
This spring, five different schools in the Inverness and Moray regions attended our regular day trips to Glen Affric. Over 161 children aged 7-10 got the chance to visit the great classroom without walls and learn about the Caledonian Forest. We looked at how trees grow, what happens to the forest habitat if certain components are taken away and what advantage camouflage has in the forest.
We also got to hear the sap rising in the trees, and how the world might sound to mini beasts, by using stethoscopes and placing them on tree trunks, decaying wood and on the ground. Have you ever wondered how a group of children running over the roof of your house might sound if you were a worm? Well, if you put a stethoscope to the ground and have the said people run around you, you might get an idea!
Several of the schools we worked with were part of a social inclusion partnership programme, which aims to provide equal opportunities to children who have less resources than others. In that regard and, in fact, with all the classes that came out, it was the first time for most of the children to visit Glen Affric or indeed the Caledonian Forest. It was great to be part of these children's first adventure into the ancient woods!
"...thank you so much for all your help and for giving my class the opportunity to get up close and personal to trees in the forest..."
Val Moffat, Merkinch Primary School, Inverness
Chris Salisbury, the Bushtucker man, showing a youngster the proper way to use a knife.
Photo by Jennie Martin.
|
A visit from the Bushtucker man!
Our spring programme ended with two summer solstice Wilderness Adventure Breaks at the Athnamulloch bothy in Glen Affric. The Bushtucker man was Chris Salisbury from Wild Wise, an environmental education project in Devon, and the participants were a group of teenagers from a youth group, and young people from a local school who are unable to cope in mainstream education.
This residential programme was offered as a way of making the environment accessible to those who wouldn't embrace the usual nature studies activities. I decided to use bush craft and field craft as the focus of the programme, as I felt these ancient skills are a fascinating way of getting closer to the environment and can therefore possibly start the process of building a mutually beneficial relationship with it.
The remoteness of the bothy and the abundance of skills our Bushtucker man brought with him made for a fantastic few days. Chris taught us how to stalk animals to get up close for observation, to make string out of nettles and fire from sticks. We had ghost stories and cooked on an open fire, made bowls and cups from burning coal and laughed a lot!
Learning how to chop wood with a knife, during one of the Wilderness Adventure Breaks, which were based at the Athnamulloch bothy.
Photo by Jennie Martin.
|
Despite the fact that most of the young people had never been to such a remote place before (there was no electricity, running water or even a flushing loo!) when I asked if they would like to come back again, there was a 99% resounding 'Yes'. It was a great joy to see those children who don't get on so well in the classroom with walls showing their capabilities to listen, learn and excel at an activity in an environment where the walls were taken away. Hooray for the wilderness!
Thank you to Chris for all your hard work and enthusiasm, to Maggie Barratt and David Millar, the youth workers who embraced the project so positively, and to the Dishma Trust for their foresight in seeing the value in this new adventure and putting the funds forward to make it happen.
Here's to the next time!
Jennie Martin
Pages about Athnamulloch on this site
Top of page
Stepping out
Derek Johnson at the start of his sponsored trek across the Highlands.
Photo by Robert McAuley.
|
Derek Johnson's Highland Cross
"I was greeted by the evening light and a nesting pair of herons in one of the first Scots pines to be seen. The loch is a truly delightful place and in a canoe, drifting with fleeing goosanders ahead, my thoughts turned to relaxation..."
Derek Johnson describing his arrival by canoe on Loch Affric, during his crossing of the Highlands.
As I mentioned in the last newsletter, Derek Johnson organised a sponsored trek across the Highlands by foot and canoe to raise funds for us. So, early on a Sunday morning we took him to Morvich at the end of Loch Duich, east of Kyle of Lochalsh, and watched him stepping out at a steady pace into the hills with a big smile on his face and a huge 120 litre pack on his back, full of an inflatable canoe, food, etc., and another pack, which seemed to me to be just sitting on his neck! I wondered if we would ever meet again as I waved him goodbye.
However, I need not have worried because he turned up at Beauly, as he said he would, on the following Wednesday evening, as fresh as a daisy and as fit as a flea, although looking like he had lost his razor! He had trekked nearly 90 kilometres through some really rough territory in the Highlands, by foot and canoe, and did it in less than three and a half days! All in a day's work to Derek. He then immediately did a telephone interview with Moray Firth Radio - no problem. He is still in the process of collecting sponsorship money, but has already sent us a cheque for £500.
(The full text of Derek's description of his journey is also available.)
Volunteer Work Weeks Appeal
Our Volunteer Work Week appeal in our last mailing was one of our best ever. Members and supporters have so far sent in a very welcome £8,773! Again, the bonus is that many also signed the Gift Aid Declaration, which adds 28% to the coffers for our tree planting. Thanks again for your help there, folks - the Volunteer Work Weeks are the backbone of our whole organisation and it's very encouraging to see such a generous response from our Members.
You can still make an online contribution to this appeal!
Robert McAuley
Top of page
See Caledonia Wild! Newsletters, for excerpts from other editions.